Collezioni Close Up: Men Knit & T-shirt Milan/ Paris - 2 Issues - 1 Year

Grunge returns to the fore in spring/summer 2011, much to the delight of knitwear in general, but of tricot knits in particular. Aspects are worn and unfinished; the weaves of round and flat natural yarns are loose and these develop into holes and openings or quite simply a fishnet aspect whose transparency envelops the male physique to sexy effect. Lightweight knits drape down to the hips and beyond, accompanying every step with elasticity and elegance, or else become skimpy virile rowing vests. From the giant stitches of Boris Saberi, Miharayasuhiro and Wooyoungmi to finer gauges that become impalpable, enveloping gauzes next to the skin, like those of Lanvin. However, it is the hand knitted effect using size 4 and 5 needles that is most rife, hence the écru, blue and black knits with deep V-necklines of Jean Paul Gaultier or the myriad variations on the cardigan theme with button fastening or side zips, with a rustic aspect, such as those by Issey Miyake, the expression of a new study of textured stitches that accentuate the shiny/matt marls of natural yarns like linen and hemp, or vegetable-dyed slub yarns. Kenzo?s blue and white diamond-patterned cardigans are decidedly Mediterranean and original and the new Paul Getty III-inspired look created by Frida Giannini for Gucci envisages a long délavé cardigan in raffia and ribbon silk whose loose yarns outside the weave denote pure craftsmanship. Lightweight knits also abound and feature strategically dropped stitches to create sculpted effects with boat necks that accentuate shoulder breadth and the waistline; those of the YSL man are elegant and decidedly dandy in shades of tobacco. In summer the striped knits of old sea dogs are a must, but with an added touch, particularly in the form of detailing and especially in combinations. Combinations with different materials, especially with leather, enhance city cardigans, hence the inclusion of python, suede cords and patch pockets, like those of Ermenegildo Zegna and Corneliani. images: more than 800

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